ROYAL PYTHON CARE SHEET
Royal Python Care and Information
Classification
Royal Pythons (Python Regius) are also known as Ball Pythons due to their propensity to ‘ball-up’ as a defensive mechanism. They are members of the Pythonidae family, suborder, Serpentes and along with other members of the Python and Boa families are often collectively referred to as ‘Boids’.
Natural Habitat
This species is mostly found in Central and
They kill their prey by constriction and are NOT venomous.
Size and Longevity
Royal Pythons are not large animals by comparison to other Boids. They are quite ‘girthy’ rather than long. Adult females can reach 6ft but this is rare with 4-5ft being more common. Adult males are generally smaller and grow to about 4.5ft.
Lifespan is between 20 – 30 years although we believe the oldest recorded Royal Python reached the ripe old age of 48!
Suitability as a Pet
Captive bred Royal Pythons that have been reared from hatchlings are generally gentle, non-aggressive snakes that have endearing personalities. They like to be held and very rarely try to get away. They, in our opinion, make great pets and are suitable for children provided adult supervision is at hand.
Provided with water they can be left while going on holiday without a problem. They can be fed every 7 - 14 days without any negative effects and they only relieve themselves based on the frequency of meals.
Selection
Firstly, we recommend purchasing from a reputable breeder. Choose a snake that has a well rounded body, clean eyes and vent, and that shows no signs of respiratory problems (wheezing, bubbles around nostrils). Look for one that is alert and curious and gently grips your hand/arms when handled (they may be skittish as neonates but will calm after handling for a bit). A reputable breeder will supply you with feeding and shedding records. Most breeders will not let their animals go until they are happy that they are feeding and shedding well and are a good weight.
Before buying your Royal Python please ensure that you have the correct equipment with which to house it and a suitable supplier for its food.
Housing Requirements
Enclosure: Royal Pythons prefer a smaller rather than larger environment as this provides them with the security they need. As a ‘rule of thumb’ the total length of the enclosure’s two longest sides should be about equal to the length of the snake. They can be kept in ‘tubs’ of appropriate size or vivaria depending on the keepers preference.
Heat: An ambient temperature of between 82-85 F should be achieved with a ‘hot-spot’ of between 88-92 F. Ideally a night time temperature drop of about 4-6 F should be provided although this is not totally necessary.
If kept in a tub heat is ideally provided by a heat mat at one end of the tub (to allow for a temperature gradient) connected to a thermostat. The thermostats sensor is best placed just above the surface where the hot-spot is to be located and the temperature set to that temperature. Ideally a thermometer should be placed in the cool end to ensure that the ambient temperature is not too warm.
If kept in a vivarium we recommend the use of ceramic heat bulbs, again connected to a thermostat as above. Each ceramic heat bulb should be covered with a guard to prevent the snake burning itself on the bulb.
Humidity: It is recommended that humidity levels should be between 60-65% and slightly higher when the snake is in shed.
Light: Royal Pythons do not need UV light. We regulate their day/night light cycle through the use of a timer connected to the light in the room they are kept in.
Substrate: Many types of substrate can be used depending on the preference of the keeper. We recommend the use of kitchen towel or newspaper for the young and Aspen bedding for older snakes. We recommend that pine or cedar is avoided as it is toxic to animals.
Feeding
A large bowl of water should be available to your Royal Python at all times. This will not only provide the water the snake will need but also aid in maintaining the humidity of its enclosure, aid in shedding and provide somewhere for it to soak (which they occasionally like to do).
Captive bred Royal Pythons should readily feed on frozen/thawed rodents. The seller of your animal will tell you whether the snake you are buying prefers rats or mice. It is generally accepted however, that rats are the better food item for sustained and healthy growth. When feeding, ensure that the food item is totally defrosted and warm to the touch (Royal Pythons have heat pits below the mouth to detect prey). Their eyesight is not brilliant so make sure you use tongs to avoid accidental strikes on hands smelling of rat!!
Young should be fed on rat pups with adults being fed on larger rats according to the size of the animal. We recommend offering food items to your snake on a weekly basis – do not be too worried if a Royal Python does not eat at every offering, this is normal and they have been known to go without food for several months. Do however, seek advice if your snake is not feeding for a length of time and is showing signs of weight loss.
Shedding
Young will shed approximately once a month for the first year or so and will grow about 1ft per year for the first three years. As they age shedding will become less frequent. It is important to check each shed and ensure that it is complete.
If the shed is incomplete put the snake in a bowl of warm water and roll the unshed skin towards the tail to remove it. Incomplete sheds can be a sign of insufficient humidity so if this happens moist sphagnum moss in a hide or a larger water bowl positioned near the heat source can help.
Cleaning
We recommend total cleaning of your snake’s enclosure fortnightly. We use a dilute solution of surgical spirit to clean our enclosures – other suitable alcohol or bleach based cleaners can also be suitable.
Spot cleaning is done on a daily basis.
Summary
Provided a proper set up and husbandry regime is adopted your snake will lead a happy life and be a very rewarding experience for the keeper of these docile and amazing animals.
We will be adding information on Breeding, Genetics and the variety of morphs available in the near future.