LEOPARD GECKO CARE
Leopard Gecko – Information and Caresheet
Classification
Leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius) are members of the subfamily Eublepharinae (which derives from the Latin Eu meaning good/true, and blephar meaning eyelid). The possession of a "true eyelid" distinguishes members of this subfamily from other geckos as other geckos do not possess eyelids. The second part of the species name, macularius, derives from the Latin macula meaning spot or blemish.
Natural Habitat
The leopard gecko is native to dry, rocky habitat in
Longevity and Size
Leopard geckos can live for up to 20 years, some sources have reported up to 25 years! Adults can reach up to 12 inches in size (from snout to tail tip), however a more average size would be approximately 8 inches. Adults can weigh anything from 50-100g. Generally, females are smaller, averaging 7-8 inches, 55g, while the males average 9-11 inches, 70-90g. Adult size (lengthwise) should be reached at around 1 year. Sexual maturity in females is normally reached between 9 and 12 months.
Suitability as pets
Leopard geckos are one of the easiest reptiles to care for and keeping them can be a very rewarding experience.
Neonates can be quite skittish but calm as they grow and get used to being handled. They are generally calm, fairly inactive, unable to climb walls, tolerant of handling and clean. Being nocturnal, they are most active in the evening (spending most of the day sleeping).
Provided you give them the right environment and security they thrive in captivity.
Selection
Leopard Geckos should be healthy and responsive. When buying your Gecko take care to look for signs of poor husbandry. A healthy Gecko should have dry mouth and nostrils and have no residual dry skin from shedding – pay particular attention to the toes.
If buying from a shop check the conditions they have been kept in are clean and that they have been provided with clean water, access to calcium based powder and the correct climate.
Avoid any animals that have signs of metabolic bone disorder or have particularly thin tails (this is where they store their fat reserves) or have mucus/discharge around the mouth or nostrils.
Housing Requirements
You should ensure you have the correct housing set up and that it is running at the correct temperature before considering acquiring your Leopard Gecko.
If you intend to keep Leopard Gecko’s together please be mindful of the following:
Enclosure: In our experience a single Gecko can be properly housed in an enclosure with a floor area 25cm x 25cm per Gecko.
There are many commercially available vivaria. Home made vivaria are also popular as you can design an enclosure to suit your own requirements.
You must take into consideration that they will require a hot-spot of around 90F and a temperature gradient within the enclosure in order to thermo regulate. Adequate ventilation must also be provided.
Substrate: There are many substrates on the market that are used by hobbyists successfully. However we only recommend using kitchen roll or newspaper as Geckos (especially young ones under 6”) can eat the substrate which can cause compaction and can lead to death of the animal.
A natural look is visually appealing but will require the keeper to be extremely vigilant.
Temperature: A temperature gradient is essential because geckos, like other reptiles, are unable to regulate their body temperature. Instead they will find a position in the tank that is at the temperature they require. Proper temperature is essential for digestion.
A temperature gradient can be achieved by placing an undertank heatmat, basking spotlight or ceramic spot heater at one end of the tank to create the hot spot. The ground temperature at the warm end of the tank should be approximately 90F. The cooler end can be as low as 70-75F. Hot rocks are not recommended as they can over heat and cause burns. All heat sources should be regulated by a thermostat.
Light: UV lighting is not necessary for leopard geckos since they are nocturnal.
We do not recommend using normal bulbs for heating unless it is red since most reptiles do not register light at infra red levels. We use ceramic heat bulbs and regulate daylight by having the room lighting on a timer – 10 hours a day during winter months and up to 14 hours during the summer.
Furniture: Hide boxes are where your gecko will most likely spend most of its time! Hides can be bought from pet shops or made from over-turned plant pot bases, shoe boxes and plastic tubs. Hides should be available at both ends of the tank. A moist hide should also be provided at the warm end to aid in skin shedding. Secured rocks, cork bark and fake plants look nice and give your gecko something to climb on.
Water: Tap water that has been left to sit for 24 hours prior to use (to let the chlorine evaporate) can be provided in a shallow water dish. The dish should be cleaned and water changed every other day.
Calcium dish: Access to a dish containing a small amount of calcium only powder may be beneficial - allowing the gecko to regulate its own intake of calcium. This can be left in with your gecko at all times.
Feeding
Food type: Personally we find that Leopard Gecko’s can thrive on a diet of mealworms (Tenebrio Molitor). Crickets and Locusts of an appropriate size (food items should be no longer than the width of the gecko's head) can also be given. However, only provide as many as can be eaten at one time as Crickets especially have a propensity to feed on faeces and can spread disease.
For variety or as a treat, silkworms and occasional waxworms (as these are high in fat) can be offered.
Supplements: remember that what your livefood eats, so does your Gecko!! Feeding your livefood a good diet is therefore essential for the well being of your Gecko and is referred to as ‘gutloading’.
All livefood should be given vitamin supplements once or twice a week that will help emulate nutritional requirements found in their natural habitat.
Mealworms should be fruit or vegatables as a water source and chicken mash (we also use babyfood) 24 hours before feeding to your Gecko and every second or third feeding dusted with a vitamin supplement.
Crickets and especially Locusts require a source of moisture. We recommend fresh fruit or vegetables be placed in their containers every other day. Again dusting them every second or third feed with a vitamin supplement will help keep your Gecko healthy.
Amount: We leave a bowl of mealworms in our enclosures permanently replenishing it every two days. This allows your Gecko to eat as it requires. However with neonates we would recommend you put between 5 – 8 mealworms at a time as this allows you to better monitor how it is feeding.
Crickets and Locusts should be no larger than the space between their eyes. Usually 4 to 5 per day is enough for neonates and roughly double that for adults – do not leave them in overnight.
Shedding
Leopard geckos shed their skin every three to four weeks. Before shedding the skin will look dull (it is important to check that the moist hide is moist during this time). The gecko will peel and eat the skin from its body (this should take no more than a few hours). Unshed skin (e.g. around the toes) can be removed by letting the gecko soak in a tub of shallow warm water, then using a damp cotton bud to rub the skin off.
Summary
A good husbandry regime will ensure the health and vitality of your Leopard Gecko and be very satisfying to the keeper.
Keep your hides moist, remove faeces daily, ensure water is clean and check the temperature is correct - follow these guidelines and you will have happy Gecko’s!!